Savvy home cooks know that real, imported Parmigiano Reggiano is one of those ingredients that can elevate an entire dish. This aged cow’s milk cheese – which, by law, can only come from certain designated regions of Italy – is not inexpensive, but it adds unparalleled depth of flavor to everything it touches and is well worth the price.
When spending top dollar for an ingredient such as Parmigiano Reggiano, however, you don’t want to waste any of it. That is why, when I come to the end of a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano, I never discard the rinds. Rather, I carefully wrap the rind in plastic, or place it in an airtight container, and add it to the collection of rinds that lives in my freezer.
When added during cooking, individual Parmesan rinds impart a rich savory note, or umami, to sauces, soups, and risottos – reason enough to justify rescuing the rinds from the compost. But I prefer to save up my Parmesan rinds – ergo the collection in the freezer – for a higher purpose: Parmesan broth or brodo in Italian.
Just as you might save chicken bones or vegetable trimmings to turn into chicken or vegetable broth, I hoard Parmesan rinds. When I have enough, I simmer the rinds and a few curated aromatics to create an intensely flavorful, luxurious broth. Indeed, the process for making Parmesan broth is quite similar to making other kinds of homemade broth and provides an equal sense of smug satisfaction for creating something valuable out of ingredients that are normally discarded.
To make Parmesan broth, begin by sautéing an onion and a whole head of garlic – with the top sliced off to expose the cloves – until lightly browned. Then add the cheese rinds, a small handful of black peppercorns, and several herb sprigs and cover the mixture with 2 1/2 quarts of cold water. Bring the liquid to a boil and then simmer the broth over low heat, uncovered or at most partially covered, for two hours until it tastes delightfully of Parmesan.
Two hours of cooking time may sound like a lot, but keep in mind that the vast majority of that time is hands-off – meaning that you can tend to other tasks around the house while the broth gently bubbles away. Indeed, making Parmesan broth is a perfect activity for a quiet afternoon at home, especially in the cooler months. And the aroma of the simmering broth is absolutely intoxicating.
Once you have made your Parmesan broth, there are numerous ways to use it. The broth makes an outstanding base for a vegetable soup like minestrone or a cooking liquid for beans. You can also use it to replace some or all of the chicken stock when preparing risotto, which gives you a one-two punch of cheese flavor if you finish the risotto with grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
But my favorite use for Parmesan broth may be the simplest: I love to heat the broth and float some fresh tortellini in it as an elegant first course for a winter dinner party or a light lunch. Although it creates extra dishes, I do not cook the tortellini directly in the Parmesan broth, which would turn the broth cloudy and starchy. Rather I cook the tortellini separately in salted water and serve it in the warm broth. This simple soup is not an authentic tortellini en brodo, which like many Italian dishes has a very specific meaning, but it is deeply satisfying comfort food nonetheless.
Want to make Parmesan broth without waiting for months to acquire a stash of rinds? You can usually find packages of just rinds at a grocery store that has a good cheese counter, or a cheese shop, for a reasonable price. This shortcut means that Parmesan broth is within reach whenever you want it.
In a hurry? You can also make Parmesan broth in your Instant Pot or other electric pressure cooker in a fraction of the time it takes on the stove. Follow the recipe below, but reduce the quantity of water to 8 cups. Use the pressure cook function, set on high pressure, to cook the broth for 30 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally for at least 20 minutes, then strain the broth into an airtight container and discard the solids.
Parmesan broth will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week, or you can freeze it for up to three months. You may notice that, once chilled, the fat in the broth will congeal at the top. There is no need to skim it off or remove it like you might with chicken broth; Parmesan broth is not at all greasy, but rather has a silky, smooth mouth feel. So stir the fat back into the broth; it will melt upon reheating.
Parmesan Brodo
Makes approximately 2 quarts
3 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, quarters
1 head garlic, top removed to expose cloves
1 pound Parmigiano Reggiano rinds
Several sprigs of fresh herbs, such as flat-leaf parsley, oregano and thyme
1 Tablespoons black peppercorn
2 bay leaves
1 pound fresh or frozen cheese tortellini (optional)
1. Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the onion and garlic. Sauté the aromatics under lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
2. Add the cheese rinds, herbs, peppercorns and bay leaf to the pot and cover with 10 cups of cold water. Stir to ensure that the Parmesan rinds are not sticking to the bottom of the pot.
3. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer the broth uncovered, or partially covered, for 2 hours, stirring periodically to ensure that the rinds are not sticking to the bottom of the pot.
4. Strain the solids and discard. If not using the broth right away, transfer it to one or more airtight containers and store it in the refrigerator for up to one week or freeze for up to 3 months. (Do not be concerned if the fat congeals at the top. It will melt back into the soup upon reheating.)
5. To serve the broth with tortellini, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the tortellini according to the package directions. Heat the broth in a separate pot. Divide the tortellini among soup bowls and cover with warm Parmesan broth.