{"id":3715,"date":"2024-03-28T03:15:37","date_gmt":"2024-03-28T03:15:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/how-black-radish-creamery-does-it-all\/"},"modified":"2024-03-28T03:15:37","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T03:15:37","slug":"how-black-radish-creamery-does-it-all","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/how-black-radish-creamery-does-it-all\/","title":{"rendered":"How Black Radish Creamery Does It All"},"content":{"rendered":"
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John and Anne Reese photo courtesy Black Radish Creamery<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

John Reese, who founded Granville, Ohio-based Black Radish Creamery<\/a> with his wife Anne, started his cheesemaking journey after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America.\u00a0 \u201cIt was the culmination of everything I had done up to that point,\u201d he says. \u201cWhen I graduated at age 29, I had done business, I had started a nursing degree, I had my personal trainer certificate\u2014but food kept calling. Cheese was physically demanding, it had the science I loved, and obviously food, so I stuck with it.\u201d In addition to working as a cheesemaker, Reese continued his cheese education by taking classes with various expert cheesemakers, including at the University of Vermont. The path may have been circuitous, but the goal was clear.<\/p>\n

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From Preserving Fruit to Preserving Milk<\/h2>\n
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Black Radish Creamery cheese shop photo credit Anne Reese Photography<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Reeses knew that launching their own creamery would be an arduous process.\u00a0 In the meantime, they started a preserves business in 2011, crafting uniquely flavored, pectin-free preserves from local fruit and selling their products at the Granville Farmers\u2019 Market. They called their venture \u201cBlack Radish Creamery\u201d from the very beginning, a promise to themselves and their customers that they would eventually produce artisan cheese.<\/p>\n

However, the next expansion for Black Radish Creamery was into retail\u2014in 2016, an opportunity arose to open a cheese shop in Columbus, Ohio\u2019s North Market. After the shop successfully made it through its first holiday season, Reese made his first batch of cheese in the spring of 2017.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n

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Proof at the Counter<\/h2>\n
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Cows at Stonewall Dairy photo credit Anne Reese Photography<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cThanks to having a cheese shop and a presence at farmers markets, we could put our cheese in front of our existing customers,\u201d he says. \u201cThe stuff our customers enjoyed, we kept making, the stuff that didn\u2019t sell, we stopped producing.\u201d Reese credits Stone Wall Dairy, <\/a>which supplies all of Black Radish Creamery\u2019s milk, as a crucial partner in the production process. Stone Wall Dairy is operated by Louis Catlett, a fifth-generation farmer. The dairy is located about an hour away from the creamery in Ohio\u2019s Appalachian region. \u201cThe farm is basically two huge 20-acre hills,\u201d says Reese. \u201cThey rotate the cows through their fields, and the cows drink natural spring water.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Seasonal Cheeses<\/h2>\n
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Black Radish Creamery cheeses photo credit Anne Reese Photography<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Black Radish Creamery produces several varieties of cheese throughout the year.\u00a0 \u201cWe try to have our cheese make sense for the season, though there are some we make all year,\u201d Reese says.\u00a0 \u201cSome of our customers switch from one cheese to another throughout the seasons, and we have gotten grocery stores and restaurants to embrace those fluctuations.\u201d<\/p>\n

Shenanigans, a raw cow\u2019s milk tomme-style cheese that\u2019s aged for at least 8 months, is the star of wintertime cheesemaking. \u201cThe milk is more concentrated in the winter, with a higher fat content, so I wanted to make cheese more based on fat than protein,\u201d says Reese. \u201cThe milk is stark white, and once the rind develops we rub it with olive oil and charcoal\u2026When you cut into it, you have a rustic black outside and a stark white interior, which hearkens back to the Black Radish Creamery name.\u00a0 It\u2019s a nice balance of piquancy and sweetness.\u00a0 We only make it during winter, because once we\u2019re into the fresh grass season, it\u2019s a different color and the components of the milk are different.\u201d<\/p>\n

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John Reese lining the truckle molds photo credit Anne Reese Photography<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In the summertime, Reese switches production to Buckhorn, a raw cow\u2019s milk tomme-style cheese that is aged for at least 6 months.\u00a0 \u201cWe\u2019re not trying to go crazy with adjuncts, in order to let the summer milk shine though,\u201d he explains.<\/p>\n

Other cheeses are made year-round, although the character changes significantly based on the season.\u00a0 For example, Bandit Red Cheddar is a raw cow milk\u2019s cheese during the warmer months, when the cows are eating fresh grass.\u00a0 During the winter, the milk is thermalized, or heated to a sub-pasteurization temperature, to ensure the best quality cheese.<\/p>\n

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Bankston cheese with Billionaire preserves<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Bankston is Black Radish Creamery\u2019s Camembert-style cheese.\u00a0 \u201cWe try to follow the production methods of traditional Camembert as much as possible,\u201d says Reese.\u00a0 \u201cWe make it all year long, but the components change.\u00a0 The milkfat changes, sometimes the make room gets cold\u2026We try to end up with where a nice Camembert would be, with a nice consistent paste throughout, but it fluctuates through the seasons, some batches are firmer or more soft.\u201d<\/p>\n

The cheese lineup also includes Charlie\u2019s Legend, a clothbound cheddar that is aged for at least a year; Pious Eddy, a pasteurized cow\u2019s milk cheese with a cider-washed rind; raclette; and fresh cheddar curds.\u00a0 Currently, Black Radish Creamery\u2019s cheeses are distributed in the Columbus area, as well as Cleveland.\u00a0 Reese plans to expand distribution in the upcoming year.\u00a0 \u201cWe\u2019ve grown organically, through word of mouth from chefs,\u201d he says.\u00a0 \u201cI\u2019m selling more cheese than I\u2019m making!\u201d<\/p>\n

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Looking Ahead<\/h2>\n

In the immediate future, Reese is using grant funding to purchase equipment in order to increase the production of the creamery\u2019s Camembert-style cheese.\u00a0 Other projects on the to-do list include updating the creamery\u2019s branding and packaging, and eventually, making additional upgrades to the cheese caves and production space.\u00a0 \u201cWe want to build up the base of a cheese business that can survive for a long time,\u201d he says. Citing Alise Sjostrom of Minnesota\u2019s Redhead Creamery<\/a> as an inspiration, Reese also hopes to partner with local distillers to ferment whey into a vodka-style spirit. Read <\/em>about Wheyward Spirit<\/em><\/a>.<\/em>\u00a0<\/p>\n

With a retail cheese shop and expanding cheese production facility, Black Radish Creamery has come a long way since its initial iteration as a farmers market purveyor of preserves. But according to Reese, one important element of the business will never change. \u201cWe will never stop selling at farmers markets. Our connection to the community started us, so we will never stop doing that.\u201d And the preserves? They are still making them, and now pairing them with their cheeses.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

John and Anne Reese photo courtesy Black Radish Creamery John Reese, who founded Granville, Ohio-based Black Radish Creamery with his wife Anne, started his cheesemaking journey after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America.\u00a0 \u201cIt was the culmination of everything I had done up to that point,\u201d he says. \u201cWhen I graduated at age 29, … Okumaya devam et “How Black Radish Creamery Does It All”<\/span><\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":1271,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[395],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3715","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-milk-and-diary"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3715","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1271"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3715"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3715\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3715"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3715"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3715"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}