{"id":3508,"date":"2023-11-16T03:00:12","date_gmt":"2023-11-16T03:00:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/small-but-mighty-get-to-know-the-farm-at-doe-run\/"},"modified":"2023-11-16T03:00:12","modified_gmt":"2023-11-16T03:00:12","slug":"small-but-mighty-get-to-know-the-farm-at-doe-run","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/small-but-mighty-get-to-know-the-farm-at-doe-run\/","title":{"rendered":"Small But Mighty: Get to Know The Farm at Doe Run"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Farm at Doe Run<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pennsylvania\u2019s The Farm at Doe Run<\/a> (website forthcoming) has made a big impact in the American cheese scene in a short time and with modest resources. This year Doe Run\u2019s Alpine-style St. Malachi<\/a> took top honors in a competition with hundreds of American cheeses. We recently spoke with Doe Run\u2019s Head Affineur, Olivia Haver, to get to know the ins-and-outs of this small but mighty Pennsylvania creamery.<\/p>\n

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The Farm at Doe Run History and Current Cheesemaking Team<\/h2>\n
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The Farm at Doe Run was purchased in 2008 by Pennsylvania-native Richard Hayne, founder of Urban Outfitters, for the express purpose of establishing a local creamery in the Chester County area. \u201cThe vision was to have a local farmstead cheesemaking operation that could be sold to small shops that appreciate delicious, elevated foods, as well as supply jobs to the community,\u201d shares Haver, and the scale of the farm and creamery isn\u2019t much bigger today than it was when it began over 10 years ago. \u201cIt\u2019s still a small herd and it\u2019s a small operation,\u201d she says. The Farm at Doe run currently maintains an entirely grass-fed herd of about 20 cows, 50 sheep, and 50 goats, which are solely responsible for all of the cheeses within Doe Run\u2019s lineup.<\/p>\n

While Hayne was the founder of the farm, he specifically recruited experienced cheesemakers to run the creamery, and Samuel Kennedy and Matthew Hettlinger have led the operation at Doe Run for almost a decade, introducing cheese favorites such as St. Malachi, Seven Sisters, and Hummingbird, among others. The unique relationship of having a farm owner separate from the cheesemaking team is an interesting, and hopefully sustainable one, as many family-owned farms and creameries struggle with the ability to pass the torch to the next generation. Read about one solution in our piece about <\/em>Round Table Farm.<\/em><\/a><\/p>\n

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Olivia Haver, photo courtesy of The Farm at Doe Run<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Haver is now part of a 4-person cheesemaking team at Doe Run, most of whom previously worked together at Vermont\u2019s Jasper Hill<\/a>, recruited about 2 years ago when the original cheesemaking team at Doe Run decided to move on. As the initial recruit, Haver then reached out to her former Jasper Hill colleagues, who had since relocated to the West Coast. \u201cI asked whether they wanted to move across the country again,\u201d she says, \u201cand they did,\u201d creating a new team for Doe Run that had cooperative experience. Haver is now joined by Head Cheesemaker Miguel Vivanco, Assistant Cheesemaker Ana Mitchell, and Assistant Affineur Hope Vivanco. As a team with only 2 years together at Doe Run, this year\u2019s recent win was a big triumph for them, in continuing the legacy of excellent cheeses from the beloved creamery. \u201cCheese R&D takes years,\u201d says Haver. \u201cTwo years isn\u2019t really that much. Five years\u2019 R&D is when you know you\u2019re super solid on your cheeses.\u201d Their track record, while brief, bodes well: In addition to St. Malachi, Mayfly, Willow, Hickory on the Hill, and 2 yet-unnamed soft cheeses \u2014 for now simply known as Batch 37 and Batch 38 \u2014 among a few others, also placed in their categories in competition.<\/p>\n

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St. Malachi<\/h2>\n
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St. Malachi<\/p>\n<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Named for a local church, the current American cheese it-girl, St. Malachi is a pasteurized, cow\u2019s milk cheese in an Alpine\/Gouda hybrid style, with 2 different age expressions: St. Malachi typically aged 8-9 months, and St. Malachi Reserve, aged 14 months on wooden boards in a limestone cave (The younger is the current big winner). \u201cIt\u2019s very caramel and toasted sugar forward,\u201d says Haver. \u201cThere\u2019s a little bit of savory on the back, especially in our younger St. Malachi. St. Malachi Reserve shifts the focus away from the caramel, and then it goes into more umami touches like soy sauce. I personally love the young version, because you get all the potential flavors at one time and the texture\u2019s still in that fudgy state, but it\u2019s not so young that it\u2019s rubbery. It\u2019s just perfect, and plus you have a natural rind, which is beautiful to look at and adds an extra layer of dimension.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Shaping the Future of Cheese at Doe Run<\/h2>\n

While Doe Run favorites are still being maintained by the new cheesemaking team, certain tweaks have been made as they got to know the individual cheeses and the facility. \u201cWhen you walk into an existing operation you\u2019re reading recipes,\u201d says Haver, \u201cso our focus, especially with St. Malachi, was honing in on what cultures are working for us in this scenario. We made little tweaks here and there, and on my end, I made some changes to the cave environment, but everything they were already doing was awesome,\u201d she says, \u201cobviously, since they were winning awards.\u201d<\/p>\n

Expect to see more of Doe Run favorites in the future, but also some new contributions to the lineup. \u201cWe have three different milk types, which is so unusual,\u201d says Haver, especially in a single farmstead operation. \u201cAnd we saw an opportunity to showcase those milk types in more single milk cheeses in order to distill the flavor of our animals living outside all year round. We want to take the flavor of the grass they\u2019re eating \u2014 they live outside the whole entire year \u2014 and bring that to people through our little cheeses. So the focus, I think, has shifted to also making a lot of soft cheeses that can do that.\u201d Could mixed milk cheeses be next? We can\u2019t wait to find out.<\/p>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Farm at Doe Run Pennsylvania\u2019s The Farm at Doe Run (website forthcoming) has made a big impact in the American cheese scene in a short time and with modest resources. This year Doe Run\u2019s Alpine-style St. Malachi took top honors in a competition with hundreds of American cheeses. We recently spoke with Doe Run\u2019s Head … Okumaya devam et “Small But Mighty: Get to Know The Farm at Doe Run”<\/span><\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"author":1271,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[395],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3508","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-milk-and-diary"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3508","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1271"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3508"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3508\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3508"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3508"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.sutyo.com\/tr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3508"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}